Filet lace is quite possibly one of the oldest forms of lacemaking.
The net base fabric is constructed in the same way as fishermen’s nets have been made for centuries, which is why the lace scholars believe this to be the first form of lacemaking technique.
It is a ‘needle lace’, meaning that a needle and thread is used to stitch the design onto a base of knotted net.
Traditionally, Filet Lace was done in two distinct steps: creation of the net base & stitching the design.
However, today a commercially available source for the net is available for use.
Net construction by hand is a very time-consuming task & is analogous to having to weave the linen or aida cloth to be able to do cross-stitch on.
The mechanism iof net construction is a ‘knotting’ process and is its own study.
Stitching the design is similar to cross-stitch. One stitch is used/repeated to build a design.
The pattern is a graph of squares that are to be filled in to create the design.
The basic stitch is called the ‘Linen Stitch’ because it resembles the weaving process that produces fabric such as linen.
The Linen Stitch is composed of one ‘row’ of vertical threads and one ‘row’ of horizontal threads interacting with one another as they are stitched in a ‘woven’ fashion.
The challenge of Filet Lace is to be able to work the design contiguously, starting and ending in one place, adding in thread as needed and minimizing the number of thread ends.
The lace traditionally is done in one color throughout. The stitching thread matches or is the same thread used to construct the base net. This is because the threads that form the network of the net are used as integral components of the lace design.
There are several methodologies to work Filet Lace. I would suggest you learn one method and stick with it. When you do research other methods, you will find incomplete directions as to how to work more complex designs.
Other names associated with this lace type: Lacis, Modano Lace, Embroidered Net.
Filet Crochet is a mimicry technique of true Filet Lace.
Filet crochet and some monochrome cross-stitch patterns can be used as Filet Lace patterns.